The last few days have been busy at the garden! We had 219 people visit in the afternoon on Wednesday, 205 Thursday, but only 37 today because of terrible weather. Wednesday was the first time all season that they’ve crossed the 200 line. Thursday was the Feast of the Assumption, and most of France is Catholic so it’s a work holiday (we got to take the morning off). Since it’s in August, anyone who isn’t already on vacation usually takes Friday off for a long weekend, so they were expecting higher visitation at the garden.

Wednesday morning, I attacked the Gunnera lining the path to the garden exit. They’re awesome and it’s quite the experience to walk through them, but too many were covering the walk making it a little dangerous, so I cleared it out a bit. Florian and one of the gardeners, Andre, were widening a path to the Lower Palm Forest in the Eryngiums, and I got to bag up all the leaves they were removing. Between the Eryngium and the Gunnera, the discarded leaves barely fit into two tractor loads!

There is a wedding tomorrow at the garden, but the forecast looks like it’s going to rain. They were planning on holding events in the great lawn, but they’ll need to move them into the convenient tent that’s set up near the entrance. Florian and I got to start sprucing it up a little bit this morning. No one has used it since we’ve been here, so it needed a little love. It’s a nice event space, they should try to use it more!

Next Friday is my last day at Vauville. I can hardly believe it! This summer in France has been weird for me time-wise, feeling at the same time like it’s dragged on forever and gone by faster than I could imagine. It seems like my family came to visit just last weekend, not a month ago! I’m so grateful to the French Heritage Society and Magnolia Plantations for sponsoring and organizing my time here, and leaving me the flexibility at the end to spend some time travelling around the rest of France for a bit when I’m done! It really has been a great experience, and a fabulous way to finish off my formal horticultural education.

Hiking for the win!

I had the day off today, and spent the morning sleeping in and reading in bed. It was freezing and overcast outside, so I had no desire to venture out. But during lunch, it cleared up amazingly, and I decided to hike over to the next town and pick up a few little things at the supermarket. Usually, Guillaume takes me with him when he drives over, but he’s been out of town for a few days and we were out of good bread. It takes less than 10 minutes to get there by car, but going uphill by foot is a different story. All I know is that I stepped out the front door at 2:30 and got back at 5:15, with a 20 min stop in the middle for the supermarket. I mapped out the route I took, as you can see below. 11km in total!

Sometimes I can't believe these are real houses.

What's up, horses? Just chillin' out by the ocean, no big deal.

It was a beautiful day with awesome scenery, and getting out of the daily grind popped me out of the homesick rut I’ve been stuck in. I’m getting really close to the end of the internship, and it’s been a great experience. I’m so thankful that I got the chance to come work at these gardens and meet some pretty amazing people. No matter how ready I am to return home to the US, I really am going to miss France. Especially the bakeries.

Garden Map

Welcome to Vauville! Here’s a translation from the map to the garden with corresponding photos.

Reception - It includes tickers, plant selling, and the tea room “Le Comptoir du Jardinier.” It is also the beginning and the end of the guided tour in the garden. Here you will find information about the garden and its activities.

The Bamboo Theater - This area was designed to include a sculpture marking the center of the garden. This clearing completely isolates the visitor from the rest of the garden. The range and size of the bamboos attract the eye of the visitor to the sky.

The Northern Palm Forest - Planted over 5000m² and started in 1992, it’s the highest position in the garden and we have a nice view on the Channel which less than 300m away. This forest is well protected by bamboos and green oaks. Bright colored Rhododendrons spring away from the winds. They benefit from the shade brought by many Trachycarpus fortune and Chamerops humilis, all mixed up. Those Rhododendrons were planted in a circle in order to create a giant wreath, colored with red and pink flowers. Two new species were introduced in 2000: The Brahea (or Erythea), distinguished by big grey leaves, and the Livistonia, whose leaves are large and soft.

Like a natural forest, small clearings hold some Arbutus unedo, Ceanothus, Ferns, Eucalyptus, and Phormium tenax among others. All those species bring diversity in size, colors, and leaves of the forest. As first intended when landscaped, the path meandering through the vegetation adds to the feeling of otherness.

The Drinking Trough - First conceived for animals, this former watering place has been transformed into an ornamental pond. Flanked by many plants reflecting in the water, this peaceful place is protected from the wind. Fid trees, Olearia, Bamboos, Dwarf Bamboos, Arums, and Bergenias grow there peacefully in the sun, protected by a nice Eucalyptus. The sculpture at the end of the pond represents a lion’s head and it was drawn by Guillaume Pellerin in 1990. The water coming through the lion’s head comes from an open-air canal whilch begins two kilometers away. The drinking trough gives birth to a curved river going to the south and it gives the illusion of continuity to the stream.

The Bird Bath - This piece made of monolith granite can hold water or seeds in its central hole. The birds are quite familiar with this place dedicated to them. Around this stone, you will find Phylostachys vivax growing under a Cryptomeria japonica.

The Hydrangea Alley - Well implanted in our area, Hydrangeas grow freely. You will notice the difference in the colors, and the Hydrangea Ayesha, whose flower is close to Lilac. This area was devastated by the October 1987 storm. Pines and Eucalyptus were planted shortly thereafter. The four tall Cypress trees with their distorted branches mark the first boundary of the garden.

The path of Discovery - The story of the gardens begins with the ditches in the 1950s. The first Phormium tenax, Phyllostachys, Eucalyptus, and Blue Cedars were planted here, protected by the enclosing wall of the castle. The earlier successes on the climate reinforced the will of the family to continue their botanic gardedn with exotic and rare species. Near the garden door, you’ll find a Ginkgo biloba, the only plant that resisted the Hiroshima bomb. This tree is also called the “100 ecus plant”: it was the price Jesuit monks paid in Japan in order to bring it back to Europe.

The path of Tree Ferns - It’s a walk among plants from Australia with Grevillea rosmanifolia, Calistemon, Hoheria, and Myositidum hortensia. The main attraction is the tree fern Dicksonia antartica from Tasmania. They have now been growing for over 50 years in our garden. A Trachelospermum jasminoides hands on the wall of the dovecote. A few meters away, you will find a Stantonia expahlya whose voluptuous perfume can be smelled from at least 4 meters away. This unique plant can be found in Korea. Fushias, Silla peruviana, and Agaves finish the walk.

The Mysterious Path - Near a lantern brought specially from Japan, this strange path makes us discover unexpected vegetation. A distorted Eucalyptus, a Bamboo forest, Mahonias, Grevilleas, and Honeysuckles grow there in a sort of confusion under the shade of the Acacia parvifolia, Acacia melanohxylon, and the Camrops humilis.

The Fan Garden - You will find hundreds of orange Hemerocallis planted in a perfect curve. They are growing under the shade of a Eucalyptus, a Cistus, a Senecio, and a Hebe. When the “day lilies” are in bloom, it’s like a flower concert on a foliage stage.

The Water Garden - Like its name, here is the kingdom of aquatic plants. The plants are protected by a thick hedge of Gynerium cortaderia, where thousands of white feather dusters bloom in September. Iris of Kampfer, Polystichums americanum, arums, and the rare Osmonde royale (a fern protected by the Conservatoire du Littoral) grow freely on tiny islands in the center of the pond. This walk around the two ponds makes us discover some Euphorbes graffiti, some Wulfenii, and sone Ophiopogons with their unique black foliage. The scenery is unique as we see the garde, the sea, and the ever-changing moor. Beyond the sea, you can have a glimpse of the cliffs of the “Nez de Jobourg” to the Northwest. If the weather is clear on the bay, you will observe the islands of Jersey, Serk and Aurigny.

Zen Garden - The room of this romantic garden is formed by huge Eucalyptus, pruned and preserved although they have been damaged by the storm of 1987. The center of this garden is a square pond framed by tree peonies, Camelia sinensis, and Phlomis fructicosa sheltered by a hedge of Camelia Sasanqua. A stome table and its round bench welcome those who are looking for peace and meditation with a view of the south side of the castle through the branches.

The Half Moon - The Half Moon is a two-level garden, planted with Berchoneria, Fatsia japonica, and yellow Calceolaria. Some Convolvus cneorum are mixed with some Myrtus Chequen and some Cordyline australis. This place used to be a field where people dried their clothes.

The Blue Vault - Nature had to adapt after the 1987 storm. Bent almost to the ground, these Eucalyptus were tutored, pruned, and found a new position that formed a new and beautiful blueish archway.

The Exotic Garden - This part of the garden is the hottest and most protected place of the whole garden. The former kitchen garden’s wall is exposed to the South and we have a few more degrees of warmth. This place is completely surrounded by perfumed Geista. In this place, we have planted rare and exotic plants which would not grow elsewhere in the garden. Proteas, Raphiolepis indica, Echium piniana, Romneya coulteri, Pelargonium, and Carpenteria California grow protected from wind, rain, and snow. Two very rare species planted 40 years ago: The Colletia cruciata and the Colletia spinosa, which are now reaching an incredible size.

The Open Space - When you reach this place, the first thing you will appreciate is the sea’s view. Then you’ll notice the western wind and the cool sea breeze. We leave this open space free of plants in order to make it the lung of the whole garden. When looking at the sea, you’ll find some Gunnera manicata and orange Hemerocallis on your left. Down on your right, you will view the Southern Palm Forest. And completely on your right, you’ll find blue Agapanthus, Nepetas, Yuccas, Cordyline australis, and some Phormium tenax.

The Southern Palm Forest - Palm trees and Cordylines are in the front line facing the wind and sprays. Enjoying the protection of the forest, Clistemons, young Eucalyptus, Cordyline indivisa, and Phormiums have been planted tightly together in order to protect themselves. They are now growing in harmony. The variety of plants and species dazzle the visitor.

The Gunnera Pond - About 60 meters long, this two-level pond is bordered by Gunnera manicata. Their leaves can reach an incredible size. You’ll notice the lion’s head which weighs more than 1.5 toms and was drawn by Guillaume Pellerin. The same architect did a perspective effect in this pond by making a small inclination. We then have the impression that the pond is long and deep.

Japanese Lantern

There are some sculptures tastefully placed around the garden, and the owner Guillaume has chosen them all himself. Most of them fit just perfectly, but there was one small pillar that really seemed to stick out to me. Shortly after I thought about it, it was gone! Today, we replaced it with a taller Japanese Lantern that fits the space much better. Mostly I carried the tools while those with stronger arms (despite all that ninja training at Acquigny) heaved around the stone.

What was there before... smaller than you think it is.

Fills the space much better, I think.

Another of the statues is a Buddha head, and Guillaume was very perturbed that it wasn’t exactly straight. So we found some small pieces of wood to prop under one side to even it out until he can get the stone sorted out.

Guillaume is an architect that often travels to Paris for work, but also designs a lot of gardens. When I first asked him what he did, I asked if he was a landscape designer, which in French is “Paysagiste” (paysage being the countryside). He was very firmly of the opinion that he was a gardener, and that most people who called themselves paysagistes very rarely had anything to do with the countryside and that he strongly disliked the term. It was an interesting first conversation. Guillaume has full charge of the plants and what happens in the garden, with 2 permanent gardeners to assist him. His wife, Cleophee, keeps the place running with all the business details. She used to have a well-known shop in Paris, but now only keeps a small boutique at the garden entry. She has great taste, if I do say so myself.

He's not afraid of getting in there and working the crepes, either!

Sunday morning, I wanted to enjoy the beautiful local scenery, so I took my book down to the beach to read in the sun. Thankfully, I had not only worn a long-sleeved shirt, but brought a blanket with me. I didn’t realize how cold it was when I left the house! I needed both, because although it was a beautiful day, the wind coming off the ocean in the mornings here certainly isn’t warm.

 There was a huge snow in March this year, and a lot of the plants in the garden were heavily damaged. A lot of the time working in the garden in the mornings seems to be spent raking up leaves, especially from the Cordylines.

Cordyline australis. Pain in the butt.

This stuff just isn't very aesthetically pleasing.

 The last two mornings, however, we were repotting plants for the courtyard and the nursery. It’s been a long time since someone has looked that closely over my shoulder to do something like repotting, but I chose to look at it as observing a teaching style. I’ll have interns of my own to be teaching soon at my fancy new job that I have to assume are starting from scratch, so it will certainly be an adventure.

Little is what we started with, big is where we ended.

At the very least I learned some new French words. “Rempoter” is the verb for repotting, and loosening the pot-bound roots is the verb “Dechignoner.” Like undo-ing the hairstyle. Some other important words for working in the garden at Vauville:

Vent: wind

Ratou: rake

Ratissage: raking

Plage: beach

Secateurs: hand pruners.

Café: coffee. You can’t get away with NOT drinking it. I might even be starting to like it.

Désherbage: weeding

Feuille: leaf

Tuyau: hose

Arroser: to water

Couper: to cut

Tailler: to trim (whether it be one branch because of damage or for topiary)

Finding a rhythm

My work schedule at Vauville is from 9am-noon, and from 2pm-roughly 7pm. We always have Sunday morning off, as well as one other full day off per week that rotates between the interns. In the mornings, we work in the garden, and I spent my first two mornings deadheading roses.

I was working on these as well as some others. They’re lollipops, but it’s what they asked for.

This is next to the roses. Best. Doghouse. Ever.

 In the afternoons, we work in the welcome area. It has a tea house, small shop, plant sales, and ticket booth. One of the interns is always in the ticket booth. It’s certainly been good for practicing my French. I’ve had some people tell me that they thought I was French until they heard me speaking English with some American visitors. I get to tend to the sales area as well, pulling stock up from the nursery on the chateau grounds. All the plants that are sold at the garden come from their own nursery. I think the area would benefit from some new display benches and definitely new signs, but we’ll see what I can figure out.

In the ticket booth, there’s also a large Botanica, so in between visitors I can be studying and brushing up on my plant knowledge, and learning more about some of the unfamiliar plants from the southern hemisphere.

It's seen better days, but it's obviously well used.

During lunch today, we went to the neighboring town for their sheep festival. Mostly it was people getting together over roast mutton, cider and beer, but there were some competitions and sheep sales as well as artisan booths. During the prime lunch hour, there was a country western group based out of Cherbourg that was performing. It really felt just the same as a small county fair back in the states. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to run back to the house and grab my camera, so I have no photos to prove any of it.

I have the morning off tomorrow, so I plan on taking a good walk through the garden and getting pictures soon.